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The Science of Hair Loss

How Hair Actually Grows (And Stops Growing)

The human hair follicle is a complex regenerative organ that develops before birth. Under normal conditions,...

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Category: news
Date:

The Science of Hair Loss

The Science of Hair Loss

How Hair Actually Grows (And Stops Growing)

The human hair follicle is a complex regenerative organ that develops before birth. Under normal conditions, these follicles repeatedly rebuild their own structures to produce new hair strands throughout life. Hair grows through a repeating biological cycle of growth, transition, rest, and shedding. Understanding this cycle helps explain why some hair shedding is normal, and why certain conditions can thin hair.

At the Center for Hair Health, we explore the science behind hair growth to help you understand what is happening to your hair and when you should seek professional advice.

The Three Phases of Hair Growth

The major classical phases of hair growth are Anagen, catagen, and telogen. Exogen describes the actual shedding of the old hair. The term kenogen is also used to describe an interval when a follicle may remain temporarily empty before a new hair strand emerges.

Unlike animals that often experience a synchronized seasonal molt, human follicles cycle through the various phases independently. So, at any given time, most healthy follicles are actively growing while a few others regress, rest, or shed. This asynchronous behavior ensures you don’t lose all your hair at once. Instead, you shed a few individual hairs daily while maintaining your overall hair density.

Changes in the number of follicles in different phases of the cycle drive many forms of hair loss.

  1. Anagen: The Growth Phase

This is the active phase of the hair growth cycle. Hair follicles can remain in the anagen phase for years, though the duration varies by person and follicle. At any given time, about 90 percent of your scalp hairs are in the anagen phase. Your hair's maximum length depends on how long the follicle stays in this phase. People whose scalp follicles stay in anagen for years grow longer hair than people with shorter growth phases.

  1. Catagen

This brief regression phase follows active growth. This phase lasts between one and two weeks. The follicle becomes shorter as it prepares to enter the resting state. 

  1. Telogen

During this phase, the follicle remains relatively inactive. Telogen lasts several months, and the follicle retains the hair until it is ultimately released and a new growth cycle begins. Hair shedding is a normal part of the hair growth cycle and not necessarily a sign of hair loss.

How much hair shedding is normal?

Most people lose 50 to 100 hair fibers daily, though this can vary by hair type, washing routine, and how often you comb your hair. 

Normal hair shedding doesn't cause thinning because new strands grow to replace the ones you shed. However, if you notice more shedding, a widening part, a receding hairline, or visible thinning, it could mean something else is happening. 

Why does hair start to thin?

Hair thinning has many possible causes, including:

  • Hereditary hair loss due to genetics

  • Hormonal changes, such as pregnancy, childbirth, or menopause.

  • Medical conditions like androgenetic alopecia

  • Nutritional deficiencies, especially low protein, B12, or iron.

  • Fungal infections on the scalp

  • Haircare practices that cause damage due to processing, including bleach and perms

  • Hairstyles that pull the hair tightly, including hair extensions and tight ponytails

These different causes explain why no single biological factor causes hair loss. Some disorders affect hormonal signaling, while others force many follicles to enter a resting state prematurely. Another factor may interrupt rapidly dividing cells during the anagen phase. Visible hair loss may look similar, while the biological cause can be completely different.

One common cause of hair loss is androgenetic alopecia, which affects men and women. This condition causes follicles to become smaller and produce short, fine hairs. Over time, the affected areas may look less dense, and the scalp may become more visible. 

Some follicles are also more sensitive to hormonal signaling than others. This explains why pattern hair loss affects certain areas of the scalp and not every hair follicle equally.

What is DHT, and How Does it Affect Hair?

Dihydrotestosterone, or DHT, is a hormone produced from testosterone in certain cells through an enzyme called 5-alpha-reductase.

In people with androgenetic alopecia, DHT binds to receptors and can shrink hair follicles, reducing hair density. The affected follicles start producing slightly thinner hair. This process can lead to gradual thinning.

However, DHT doesn't cause all hair loss. Identifying the cause is important because it determines the type of treatment you get.

When Shedding is a Different Story

Telogen effluvium occurs when an unusually large number of follicles enter the resting phase and later shed hair. Major physical or emotional stressors, such as surgery, a significant illness, or rapid weight loss, can cause it.

You may not notice the shedding until a few months after the stressor. In most cases, shedding is temporary, and hair density improves once the underlying cause resolves. However, persistent shedding may need further assessment by a professional.

Telogen effluvium is different from androgenetic alopecia, which typically involves gradual thinning and follicle miniaturization. However, these two conditions can occur in the same person.

If hair loss is sudden, persistent, or accompanied by itching, inflammation, bald patches, or scalp pain, consult a dermatologist or healthcare professional. They can help identify the cause of your hair loss and suggest the best treatment options.

What to Explore Next

Hair health involves more than the hair growth cycle. Explore our other resources to learn more about:

  • Treatments and devices: Understand the available hair loss treatments and the evidence behind them.

  • Nutrition: Learn how diet and nutritional deficiencies may affect hair growth

  • Stress and lifestyle: Explore how stress can trigger shedding

  • Medical causes: Discover how health conditions, medications, and hormones can influence hair growth.

 

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